Weld Pilsner is calculated to be 46 IBUs. This is a Czech premium pale lager, which the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) style guidelines state is between 30–45 IBUs. Being hop heads, of course Weldwerks went over the style guidelines, even if it is only by 1 IBU.

History of Czech Beer

When American craft brewers discuss influences from other countries’ historical brewing traditions, you can expect them to mention England, Germany, and Belgium. But how many would include the Czech Republic (Czechia)? I have a feeling that many Americans think of Czech beer as just German beer made with soft water and Saaz hops. While those are certainly part of the story, there is a lot more to Czech beer than that.

České pivo (Czech beer) is actually recognized as a protected geographical indication (PGI) within the European Union, which gives it the weight of law. Its definition lists quality parameters, production methods, and ingredient limitations, as well as sensory aspects that distinguish it from other European beers. Not all beer in Czechia meets these criteria, but those that use the protected name certainly do. It’s like a trademark or appellation; it protects the intellectual property of the product, and guarantees that it meets defined quality standards.

While this all sounds like legalese, it does actually provide concrete evidence for something that I have been claiming for a long time — that Czech brewers have a tradition of decoction mashing, and it is an important part of their national beer character. Decoction mashing refers to removing a portion of the mash, typically a third, bringing that portion to a boil for a set time, and remixing it with the main mash to achieve a higher rest temperature The definition of České pivo mandates that a decoction mash (single, double, or triple) MUST be used. We’ll get into the other aspects of the beer, but this is very important.

Classification of Czech Beer

Czechia uses a matrix of color and original gravity (measured in degrees Balling, which is equivalent to degrees Plato and Brix) to classify beers. The colors are světlé (pale), tmavé (dark), and polotmavé (amber, or literally, half-dark). A small number of beers may be described as černé (black), but this is basically a synonym for dark. The gravity classes are known as stolní (table beer, less than 6 °Plato/1.023 OG), výčepní (draft, 7–10 °Plato/1.027–1.040 OG), ležák (lager, 11–12 °Plato/1.044–1.048 OG), and speciální (special, 13 °Plato/1.053 OG and greater). Porter is a subset of special beers that is a dark beer greater than 18 °Plato/1.074+ OG, but there are many other types of strong lager.

The use of gravity bands to define beers is not uniquely Czech — Germany uses a similar system of schankbier, vollbier, and starkbier. But the Czechs display the gravity more prominently, and often use the number as the name or identifier for the beer. The výčepní and ležák class beers are more commonly found, as are the světlé and tmavé colors.

You’ll notice that “Pilsner” isn’t used as a name of any of these beers, as it is in other countries. In Czechia, Pilsner means Pilsner Urquell, the beer from Plzeň (Pilsen). Similar beers are called světlé ležák, or pale lagers. Judges and brewers outside Czechia commonly call them either Czech Pilsners or Bohemian Pilsners, particularly when trying to distinguish them from German Pils or American Pilsners. As a sidenote, Pilsner is sometimes spelled Pilsener; both are correct. 

The Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) differentiates výčepní beers as Czech pale lagers (Style 3A) and ležák as Czech premium pale lagers (Style 3B), avoiding the use of Pilsner as the style name out of respect for the origin of the style. The other defined Czech styles are Czech amber lager (Style 3C) and Czech dark lager (Style 3D). These are a subset of beers made in Czechia, but have been enough to drive interest in commercial brewers making these styles elsewhere.

The Czech styles listed in the BJCP guidelines represent a necessary collapsing of multiple categories of Czech beer to facilitate judging. Just be aware that the defined styles represent ranges of beers, and that multiple types of beer can fit within each category. As with most styles, the range of commercial examples can vary quite a bit, so it’s easy to find examples with differing balances, amounts of bitterness, and varying levels of sweetness or dryness in the finish.

Characteristics of Czech Beer

I tend to talk about Czech beer characteristics in both absolute and relative terms. Absolute when they can be quantified, but relative to German because they are often better known and serve as a useful frame of reference. To me, the biggest sensory difference about Czech beer compared to German is the mouthfeel. Czech beers have a fuller body and finish with a higher unfermented residual extract, which can sometimes be perceived as sweetness. Czechs describe their beer as having a fullness on the palate. On an absolute basis, the body is medium-to-full for many beers.

Czech beers are generally well-hopped and have a medium to high bitterness (standard-strength lagers can range up to 45 IBUs). The bitterness is not harsh, however, and the impression of bitterness is somewhat tempered by the fuller finish. Czech beer tends to have a higher finishing pH and polyphenol (tannin) level, which can also give a fuller mouthfeel and a reduced crispness.

Paler Czech lagers tend to have a deeper color than similar German beers due to decoction mashing, which often pushes them more into gold and even bronze and away from the straw to yellow colors of German lagers. Dark Czech lagers are rarely black, with dark brownish colors being the norm. Good clarity is prized, particularly in pale lagers. 

Czech beers have a creamy head with a rich, natural foam, and are well carbonated. The foam is often accentuated by the characteristic Czech side pull taps (sometimes called LUKR taps, after the popular LUKR manufacturer that makes them). These taps have a ball valve that allows for a variable flow rate, as well as micro screens that normalize bubble size as the beer is dispensed. These features allow for pours with a varying amount of foam, which customers can request. Compare these to the standard North American beer tap faucet, often known as the Perlick style after the most common premium brand. Read more about the popular Czech pours in the sidebar below.

Check out our story on Czech beer pours for more on why the beer foam matters.

Producing Czech Beer

The ingredients in Czech beer produce much of the character and are specified within the PGI. The gold standard for hops is the Žatec (Saaz) variety and region, although hops from other Czech hop-growing areas are allowed. Whole hops are typically used. Dry hopping (or any cold-side hopping) is not used. First wort hopping — adding hops to the kettle before or during lautering, prior to the wort being brought to a boil — is a technique known to Czech brewers, and is often used to produce a smoother bitterness.

Pale malt of the Pilsner type from Czech regions is used. The English influence is present in the kilning methods, which aided in the development of the first pale lagers. As I previously mentioned, decoction mashing is required. Czechs believe that double decoction is preferable to single decoction, but some products (notably Pilsner Urquell) are still triple decocted. Czech malts tend to have lower levels of proteolytic modification, which favors a lower level of attenuation in the finished beer.

Compared to German beers, more caramel and dark malts are used in darker beers with less of a Munich/Vienna-type malt base. Pilsner-type malt (even if called “pale malt”) is the typical base. Richness is gained more through malting and decoction methods, which develop flavor as well as body and color. Roasted malts, when used, tend not to have burnt flavors. Czech beers are all malt; no sugars or adjuncts are used.

Water is described as soft-to-medium hard, with that from Pilsen being quite low in minerals. Bottom-fermenting lager yeast is used, with three common strains being available to Czech brewers. Their yeast strains tend to have lower attenuation than many German strains, and are often described as not being as “clean.” Czech beer can have a threshold buttery character from diacetyl that enhances caramel flavors and body when fresh, but should not have a strong or harsh quality. This profile tends to be desired by Czech consumers.

Czech beer undergoes a two-stage fermentation process, basically fermentation and lagering. The maximum fermentation temperature allowed is 57 °F (14 °C) but is traditionally cooler and slower, often below 50 °F (10 °C). Lagering is conducted at near-freezing temperatures and is often lengthy, until quality parameters are met. Open fermentation is still a technique practiced by many Czech brewers.

Historical Evolution

While there is evidence of brewing in Czechia for more than 1,000 years, modern Czech beer is inextricably linked to the Pilsner origin story. As we all know, Josef Groll first brewed Pilsner Urquell in 1842 in Plzeň, marking the start of popularizing pale lager. Using kilning techniques learned in England (then still the British Empire) and bottom-fermenting lager yeast obtained in Bavaria (then still a kingdom, as Germany didn’t become unified until 1871), local ingredients and Central European methods of the time were used to develop industrial brewing.

Czech beer continued to develop and expand in influence in Central Europe as lager brewing became more popular and consumer tastes for paler beer grew. However, modernization in brewing all but ceased in what was then-Czechoslovakia in the late 1930s as it first was occupied by Germany, and later came under communist control until the peaceful Velvet Revolution of 1989.

This unfortunate 40+ years of Czech history did have the effect of creating a kind of time capsule of brewing. Brewing in the Czech Republic of the 1990s resembled Bavarian brewing pre-WWII. This preservation of traditional beer production methods is one important aspect of modern Czech beer. While it is reasonable to see a common origin of German and Czech brewing traditions, the split almost a hundred years ago created differences that are still noticeable today. German brewing modernized and changed, while Czech brewing preserved many of the more historical and traditional ways that distinguish Czech beer today (learn more about Czech beer culture and the influence history has played in the sidebar below).

While there may not be explicit stylistic links between German and Czech beer, I often think about the parallel nature of many styles. Take a German/Austrian style of today and apply the Czech national character to get a modern Czech style: German Pils and Czech pale lager, German dunkel and Czech dark lager, Vienna lager and Czech amber lager, Baltic porter (or possibly doppelbock) and Czech porter. The cited styles, even more so when considering their strength variations, do reflect a national brewing character that is worth understanding and appreciating.

Read our article about industrial lagers in the Czech Republic for more on how the industry has evolved.

Final Comments

Prior to the 2015 BJCP Guidelines update that increased the awareness of traditional Czech styles beyond beers like Pilsner Urquell, it was often hard to find examples of Czech beers in the U.S. You could find some mentions in Michael Jackson’s books, but it was hard to find examples you could buy in stores or brewpubs. I’m happy to see so many U.S. (and elsewhere) craft breweries who are attempting Czech styles, especially those that are either specializing in them or in lager beer production in general.

I had wanted to introduce Czech styles (at least the dark lager) in the 2004 guidelines, but I was met with resistance because they either weren’t being entered in competitions or weren’t available as imports. I’m glad the BJCP has become more of an international organization since that has encouraged the exploration of more world beer styles and a better understanding of brewing traditions of important countries in the development of modern beer.

There is still more Czech beer to explore and understand, and the BJCP guidelines are just hitting some of the highlights at the moment. Don’t let the beer styles defined for homebrew competitions give you an incomplete understanding of the range of Czech beer. Those with a taste for travel can seek out local examples, of course. For those who wish to research further, the writings of Evan Rail, Ron Pattinson, and Jeff Alworth are always informative.

Pilsner is both a well-understood and poorly understood beer style. Craft beer enthusiasts know the origin story of the first pale lager brewed in 1842 in the Czech city of Pilsen (Plzeň in the Czech language). Casual beer drinkers may think Pilsner is another name for beer, since it is freely used on many light lagers (Miller Lite proudly says that it is “a fine Pilsner beer,” for instance). Adding to the confusion is that the terms “lager” and “Pilsner” are used interchangeably at times.

Most Americans and craft beer enthusiasts think of lagers as a type of beer fermented with bottom-fermenting yeast. Most Europeans think of lagers as a type of beer fermented and conditioned at cold temperatures. Both are correct usages, so it is best to understand the context and where the terms are used since the actual definitions differ. In this article, I use lager to mean a beer fermented with bottom-fermenting yeast at cool temperatures and then cold conditioned for a period of time.

Pilsner (which also can be written as Pilsener) is a type of pale lager that originated in Pilsen – the name literally means, “from Pilsen.” Within the Czech Republic, Pilsner is considered an appellation of origin, so only beers produced in Pilsen can be called Pilsners. This is why the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) terms these beers “Czech premium pale lagers,” which mirrors the Czech name světlý ležák (pale lager). Outside of the Czech Republic, these beers are sometimes called Czech Pilsners or Bohemian Pilsners (Bohemia is a region within the Czech Republic).

For purposes of discussing current beer styles, I often refer to Pilsner in the generic sense as a family of beers, including many that are not of Czech origin. It’s easier to write this way, but please consider this to mean Pilsner-type beer since I believe the Czechs deserve to protect their heritage. From this point forward, I will use Pilsner to mean the family of styles and will add a qualifier when I am talking about a specific style.

Meet the Pilsner Family

As a family of beer styles, Pilsners have common elements. The most important is that they are pale lager beers with noticeable hop character and bitterness. They are clear beers, no darker than golden in color, with a well-developed white head. They tend to be average strength beers (around 5% ABV with starting gravities around 1.048 or 12 °P). I usually think of Pilsners as having at least 20–25 IBUs in bitterness so as to separate them from the more common lager family of beers (not the broad category of lagers, but the collection of lower-bitterness, mass-marketed pale lagers — the BJCP calls these styles International pale lagers, American lagers, and American light lagers). Regardless of how they are branded, I don’t consider these beers to be true Pilsners due to their low bitterness.

Czech Pilsner (Bohemian Pilsner, Czech Premium Pale Lager, BJCP style 3B) is the original Pilsner style, made famous by what was later branded Pilsner Urquell. Compared to other Pilsners, these are maltier, richer, darker in color, and have more body. Czech beers in general have greater residual extract (higher finishing gravity) so they tend to have more of a malty finish and greater mouthfeel. They are characterized by a strong bitterness and traditionally feature Saaz hop aroma and flavor. Low-mineral water used in brewing allows for a higher level of hopping without harshness. Decoction mashing is common, with Pilsner Urquell using a triple decoction mash. Czech yeast and brewing techniques can leave a trace level of diacetyl in the beer, but this character should not be prominent.

German Pils (German Pilsner, BJCP style 5D) is derived from Czech Pilsner, and adapted to local brewing conditions. Compared to Czech Pilsner, it has a lighter body, a drier finish, and is lighter in color. It can have a sharper finish as some German water is higher in sulfates. German hop varieties are commonly used with noble-type hops being traditional. Step mashing is often used for producing the beer. Regional variations exist in Germany (as with bitters in the U.K.), with drier examples found in the north and maltier examples in the south.

American Pilsner (Pre-Prohibition Lager, BJCP Style 27) is derived from Czech Pilsner and German Pils-
ner, having come to the United States with immigration in the late 1800s. The ancestor to modern American lagers, this beer was balanced more like Czech Pilsner but made with American ingredients. Traditionally, 6-row malt with corn or rice as adjuncts was used, with native American hops used for bittering and imported European hops for aroma and flavor. Few examples exist today of this historical style, although it has inspired modern craft variations. After Prohibition ended, American Pilsner became more industrialized and increasingly bland and less bitter, so it essentially morphed into modern American lager.

Other European countries began making Pilsners in the style of German Pils, but adapting to their own markets. These tended to be less bitter, and they could be made with adjuncts. While they may be called Pilsners in their local markets, they are essentially described by the International Pale Lager style (BJCP style 2A). Distinct examples exist in Belgium, France, the Netherlands, Scandinavia, Poland, and elsewhere. While these examples may use local hop varieties, they are generally not hopped sufficiently to be recognizable as modern Pilsners. Many of these are premium mass-market beers of high quality, but generally have less bitterness than other Pilsner examples.

Entering the modern craft era, German Pilsner has served as the inspiration for a huge variety of modern examples. While Czech Pilsner is the undisputed original, it is the German Pilsner with its drier, crisper finish and more streamlined recipe and production method that is most often chosen as the template for variation and experimentation. While German and Czech Pilsners are not traditionally dry-hopped, many modern variations use this technique, as well as generally increasing the late hop profile.

I think there is actually a major variation of German Pilsners that involve dry hopping. Let’s call these hoppy Pilsners (best to enter currently as BJCP style 34B Mixed-Style Beer), although few are branded as such. With a change in hop varieties, I’ve seen these beers called Italian Pilsner (when using noble-type hops), West Coast Pilsner (when using American IPA-type hops), and New Zealand Pilsner (when using New Zealand hops; note, though, the Kiwis define New Zealand Pilsner differently). If you accept the general idea of hoppy Pilsner, then you can see how easy it is to extend the variations when additional hop varieties (possibly using hops not yet released) are used. Some brewers may use American Pilsner to mean something similar to West Coast Pilsner, rather than as a historical term.

These variations often make changes in base malt and water chemistry from the German Pilsner, not just varying hop varieties. However, they all do tend to use a similar neutral lager yeast, preferably ones that are low sulfur producers. In general, when increasing possibly sulfury hops, the sulfur content of the water should be lowered, which can often produce a softer finish. When the overall sulfur load in the beer becomes too high, the beer can seem increasingly objectionable, regardless of the source of the sulfur.

I find the currently popular West Coast Pilsner to be a curious notion. Brewers can make it in different ways, including using corn and rice as adjuncts. Some may use a warmer fermentation to attempt to reduce the sulfur content (which is what often made so-called India pale lagers, or IPLs, less popular). But an average strength lager made with IPA hops and possibly adjuncts sounds awfully familiar. Cold IPA, perhaps? Regardless, the resulting beers are quite enjoyable.

In New Zealand, they do have a local style they call New Zealand Pilsner (BJCP style X5). However, it is different from the style that many American craft brewers (and judges) seem to want to call that style. The base beer isn’t exactly like a German Pilsner; it is in between German and Czech examples in that it has a maltier, softer finish. But it doesn’t have the richer malt flavors often found in Czech examples. The most unusual aspect is that many New Zealand brewers produce this as a cool-fermented ale, not a lager. They could use a dry yeast like SafAle US-05 to make the beer, or the more traditional SafLager W-34/70. Commercial producers might use the faster ale yeast, while homebrewers prefer the traditional lager yeast. Either way, the beer tends to have a neutral fermentation profile.

In Germany, there is another traditional style worth mentioning. Kellerbier is a traditional family of lager beer using a more rustic conditioning and serving method, resulting in beers with a greater yeast character. While not traditionally applied to Pilsners, in the modern craft era the technique has been used this way to create what is sometimes called the Keller Pils (BJCP style 27). This type of beer does not have to be as clear, can have more body, and usually has greater fresh yeast flavor (including higher levels of fermentation byproducts typically reduced during long cold conditioning). This style is not limited to Germany, as craft brewers worldwide are producing it.

Germans and Czechs produce Pilsners (and other lagers) of differing strengths, often considering these to be separate styles. In Germany, a lower-alcohol Pilsner can be called a Leichtbier (BJCP style 5A), although that term can also be applied to a helles-type beer. Czechs typically include the degrees Plato in the beer description, and lower alcohol Czech Pilsners are categorized as Czech pale lagers (BJCP style 3A, světlé výčepní pivo). 

As the Pilsner family continues to expand, there is also innovation in the lager family. Recently, styles such as Mexican lager and Japanese rice lager have become popular as craft beer styles in the U.S. and elsewhere. Lager could experience a similar treatment as Pilsner. For example, in Brazil I’ve seen dry hopping and increased late hopping applied to American-type lager to create something they call hop lager. I think techniques and experimentation seen in Pilsners are likely to continue in lagers as well, and vice versa. The craft era has broken many of the traditional beer style boundaries we once believed in, so for those who follow beer styles, try to have some flexibility in thought as brewers continue to experiment.

Brewing Variables

When brewing Pilsners, there are a few key choices the brewer can use to control the finished beers. While there is some similarity between styles, there is a surprising number of alternatives in how to approach individual styles. I think the important variables include the base malt choice, whether or not to use adjuncts, the mash program, the water chemistry, the hopping, and the yeast selection. 

Wait, Gordon, that’s just about every part of beer. Yeah, pretty much. But there are some constraints to these choices that make it easier.

Regarding base malt, it kind of goes without saying that Pilsner malt is the most common choice. However, there are significant differences between Pilsner malt from different countries and between individual maltsters. The type of Pilsner malt can also influence the mash program. For instance, German Pilsners should be made from mostly German Pilsner malt, and the Germans traditionally use a step mash. Czechs can use a wide range of malts, from the same German Pilsner malt to Czech undermodified malt, which needs a more intensive mash program such as decoction. Some of these German and Czech malts are available as floor malted, different barley varieties can be used, and some are more highly kilned than others. I find some modern boutique Pilsner malts have too heavy a toasted flavor to taste good in a Pilsner, but that’s my opinion. I find some Belgian Pilsner malts to have a slight fruitiness to them. The important point is that not all Pilsner malts taste the same, so it’s best to understand the flavor profile from the ingredients you use.

Some American-style Pilsners and the lagers derived from them can be made with North American (U.S. or Canadian) Pilsner malt, lager malt, or 2-row brewer’s malt. These tend to have less flavor intensity, especially bready flavors, than the European malts. Sometimes, I will dilute European Pilsner malts with North American malts to reduce the stronger flavors that might not be wanted in all variations. Some of the American Pilsner styles can use corn or rice, but the brewer has the choice of the form. Flaked versions are easier to mash, but can have less flavor. The unprocessed grains normally have to be cooked using a cereal cooker or double mash program, so few homebrewers go this route. American styles using adjuncts may be made using an infusion mash as well, for simplicity.

The mash program isn’t just about converting starches to sugars; it also is how the brewer can control attenuation and how the beer finishes. The dry finish associated with German Pilsners is normally created by a step mash, although some brewers might use a single infusion mash with added dextrinous malts to not remove all the body. Czech lagers are normally at least double decocted to increase color, flavor, and mouthfeel associated with the beer.

German Pilsners often have calcium sulfate in the water to increase the dryness and sharpness in the finish. Just keep in mind that the added sulfur can cause some late hops to taste or smell unpleasant. Pilsners with a softer finish will use more calcium chloride, while Czech Pilsners are traditionally made with low-mineral water. Adjusting the water chemistry does more than facilitate the mash, keep in mind that it will have impacts on the finish of the beer and the interaction with the late hops.

Pilsners can benefit from high-alpha, but non-harsh, bittering hops. Something like Magnum is often used in German-style beers, but can certainly be used in any Pilsner style. The late hops drive the character of many Pilsners, and is what differentiates most modern Pilsners. Noble hops for German and Italian Pilsners, American or New World hops for West Coast Pilsners, and Czech Saaz hops for Czech Pilsners are common. The IPA-like Pilsners obviously have more choices, but remember to be aware of sulfury hops  (like ones that have an oniony, dank, diesel-like, or other similar pungent character) that can clash with the water and yeast. Hoppy Pilsners can be made from other styles by replacing the bittering hops with first wort hops to increase the hop flavor while providing bitterness, and the flavor and aroma hops can be moved to the whirlpool or dry hop to increase the aroma.

Most Pilsners can be made with an attenuative, clean German lager yeast such as W-34/70. I’ve also had good luck with Mexican lager yeast, which is also clean and attenuative. Some lager yeast strains are known for producing additional fermentation byproducts that can enhance the flavor. If you have a hoppy beer, be sure you think about the interaction between yeast and hops flavors to have something compatible. Malty or less attenuative lager strains can be flavorful, but often have difficulty achieving the right finish in a Pilsner. I prefer to avoid lager strains that are known to be high sulfur producers, since I don’t want too much of this character in my finished beers. Don’t forget to lager the beer when fermentation is done; this step is critical to the smooth palate and clean flavors.

Final Thoughts

I often wonder what the original brewers of Pilsner in Pilsen would think of today’s pale lager landscape. Would they recognize their beer in so many forms? Would they feel honored or offended by how pale lagers became simplified to appeal to the wider beer market worldwide? 

If you are discussing Pilsners with people, keep an open mind about how they are described. Those with different frames of reference or background may be using the term in a less precise way. I will often use those conversations to understand what the drinker really enjoys about the beer they are drinking, since that might lead to other choices for them to try.

Lager and Pilsner have become overloaded words that have multiple meanings. I normally expect Pilsners to be more bitter and sometimes more hoppy than beers simply called lager (without any adjectives or modifiers), but I do expect them all to be pale. I expect both to have a smooth palate and to be refreshingly drinkable. I will make that first separation by examining the balance, particularly the bitterness level. If you are talking to more novice drinkers, that’s not a bad place to start. If they like what they are tasting, feel free to pull out your beer passport and start showing them the Pilsners of the world. It’s an enjoyable trip, and I hope to see you there.

Recipes

I’ve included three Pilsner variations on the following pages. The German Pilsner recipe can be used as a template for any hoppy Pilsner. Replace bittering hops with a first wort hop addition of a flavor hop, move flavor and aroma hops to the whirlpool or dry hopping, and alter the variety of hops to match the target profile for the style.

The Pre-Prohibition Lager recipe can be a template for any adjunct Pilsner. For a throwback version, use 6-row lager malt and Cluster hops for bittering. Using IPA-like hopping with the beer can be used as a starting point for a West Coast Pilsner (or cold IPA).

The New Zealand Pilsner recipe can be a template for a Pilsner using a mixed grain bill to reduce the flavor of Pilsner malts. If you want to make it like some Kiwis do, substitute US-05 for the yeast. With all the variation in New Zealand hops today, feel free to experiment. Just keep in mind that New Zealand brewers almost never use Nelson Sauvin^TM hops alone; they have too strong a flavor.

A dry-hopped German Pilsner

When I was first learning to homebrew in the 1990s, I relied on books from Dave Miller and Greg Noonan to teach me not only the what but the why about brewing. So, I naturally sought out other books by these authors, which is what led me to the book Continental Pilsener by Dave Miller. It’s a great read but I was somewhat confused by the recipes that were all dry hopped. If you check German brewing textbooks they don’t talk about dry hopping, which is in the English (and American) tradition. I tended to make my Pilsners in the German and Czech tradition, so I just kind of mentally filed away this note as a curiosity.

Fast forward to the 2010s when I first tried a Firestone Walker Pivo Pils. Judging in commercial competitions, it would sometimes show up on the best-of-show table as a German Pilsner. The discussion would usually go like, “great beer, but too many late hops for a Pilsner” but it didn’t really have a place to be entered, except perhaps as an Experimental Beer. But the idea of a hoppy Pilsner made sense to me as long as it didn’t have excessive grassiness or harshness, which is why Germans didn’t dry hop in the first place.

More recently, I’ve tried beers in South America marketed as hop lager, which is kind of the same idea as an Italian Pilsner but applied to an American lager base. Take something you know, then dry hop it and also boost the flavor hops while keeping the overall balance the same. It actually winds up being quite a drinkable beer and adds interest to a style craft beer enthusiasts often overlook.

Whether you consider a dry-hopped German Pils to be an Italian Pilsner or a hoppy Pilsner or some other name, in sanctioned BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program) competitions it is best to enter this as a 34B Mixed-Style Beer, and say that it is a dry-hopped 5D German Pils. If using distinctive hops, the varieties could also be mentioned since this is a specialty-type beer. This style is for beers that “are a variation of an existing style using a non-traditional method or process for that style.” Commercial competitions using the Brewers Association guidelines might enter this beer as a Contemporary American-Style Pilsener, as they don’t currently have a narrow definition for Italian Pilsner either.

Italian Pilsner History

Here’s a style with a long and a short history. Pilsner is kind of like porter — it is a family of beers with a long and proud heritage. Originating in what is now the Czech Republic, being adapted in Germany and then being exported around the world with European immigrants bringing their traditions to the U.S. Then each of these variations evolving over time and inspiring even more experimentation worldwide.

But the first Italian Pilsner really traces to 1996 when Birrificio Italiano brewed their Tipopils. However, the beer didn’t get much international attention until it was acknowledged as the inspiration for Firestone Walker’s Pivo Pils. Other western breweries followed the lead and published recipes for both beers helped give them the needed information to try their own versions.

It can be confusing because it’s not a pale lager from Italy, like Moretti or Peroni — those are more like international pale lagers.

But why not just say this is a style and define it as such? Well, it’s new and evolving, for one. I don’t like rushing to jump on what may be a fad (hello, brut IPA) even if it seems popular at the time (I’m looking at you, black IPA). Also, if it’s similar enough to an existing style I kind of would like to see if the base style moves in that direction (that is, German Pils becoming more “Italian”). It’s easy enough to expand the definition of German Pils to cover that eventuality; I’m just not sure if that’s going to happen. I’m kind of in a similar wait-and-see mode with cold IPA — is it unique or is it where American IPAs are heading? Certainly, what many call West Coast IPA is just what American IPA has become nowadays. So, before styles are formally defined enthusiasts can understand the essence of the variation so distinctions can be understood.

I think it bears mentioning that Italian Pilsner is mostly a marketing name as the ingredients aren’t typically Italian. It was first brewed in Italy but the use of the name Italian is seen as something that evokes an image in the U.S. as something romantic, exotic, or flavorful. It can be confusing because it’s not a pale lager from Italy, like Moretti or Peroni — those are more like international pale lagers. So, just remember that Italian Pilsner is what some call a hoppy lager and the distinctions really only matter at the competition level.

Sensory Profile

This beer is superficially very similar to a German Pils. It clocks in around 5% alcohol, although some in the U.S. make it stronger. I don’t think it benefits from an alcohol edge, so keep it under an IPA. The beer is pale, light-gold at most, and is clear with a rocky, white head. It shouldn’t be watery, but not heavy either, so medium-light is about right. The balance should be bitter, but it shouldn’t be sharp, harsh, or biting. It should have a clean fermentation character and a smooth, well-lagered texture. The beer is well-attenuated with a dry finish, but it doesn’t need to have a super-crisp bite. I think some softness in the finish drinks well. 

So maybe it’s best to focus on the small differences in the style compared to a German Pils. The late hops are the first thing to notice. The flavor and aroma hops are more prominent and the aroma can have a freshly dry-hopped character. The hops don’t need to be at the IPA level; just more noticeable than in a German Pils. The bitterness does not need to be higher, certainly not to the Jever Pilsener level. I don’t think it typically has a minerally, flinty, sulfury finish, since a sulfury quality from the water (or yeast or hops . . .) can detract from the hop profile.

There can be a lightly fruity note to the beer, either from the hops or a slight yeast contribution. This character is optional, but not unwelcome. The malt should evoke flavors associated with good-quality continental Pilsner malt, like crackery or faintly honey-like. I would think of the beer as nicely balanced and drinkable, but I realize that many think that is too subjective of a description. It can seem to have a slightly higher malt flavor than a German Pils, but that is mostly a function of it not being as crisp in the finish.

The beer should not be boozy or harsh; the hopping should not seem over the top; the malt shouldn’t get into the toasty, bready, or biscuity range; and the hops shouldn’t be citrusy, dank, resiny, piney, or otherwise too abrupt. This is still a European beer and it should have the elegant malt and hop profile and smooth lager notes that so many other beers from the continent have.

Honestly, this beer has much of the profile that I found that I like in New Zealand Pilsners, which aren’t necessarily fermented with lager yeast. The hop character is different but the overall balance and impression can be similar. Softer than a German Pilsner, not as rich as a Czech Pilsner, and with an interesting hop character. The details are different but the drinkability is the same. This is a beer style for brewers, for sure.

Brewing Ingredients and Methods

Except for the dry hopping, using German Pilsner methods and ingredients makes perfect sense. Start with a base of Pilsner malt, typically of continental origin, and not any special treatment like floor-malting. It should not have a biscuity or toasty edge to it. A light treatment of character grain is possible, something well under 10% of the grist. Pivo Pils uses some CaraFoam®, Tipopils uses a touch of light CaraMunich®, and others have used things like Cara-Pils®, CaraHell®, or even light Munich malt. Some of these character grains are for head retention, so might be used like homebrewers often use wheat (at about 3% of the grist), and others are just deepening the color a shade. They shouldn’t be adding significant flavor, but could help with the softness on the palate and in the finish by adding some dextrins.

The beer can be produced by step infusion or decoction, but step infusions are the more modern German tradition. The goal is a beer that is attenuated but still has some body. It shouldn’t have a heavy or sweet finish, but some dextrins are welcome to soften the finish.  Some brewers add acidulated malt to reduce pH during the mash while other (non-Germans) can use mineral acids. Keeping the mash pH low helps keep the beer pale and clear, and encourages good conversion. 

The hop choice is the main area of interest for this beer. Tipopils uses Northern Brewer for bittering, with Perle, Spalt, and Saphir for flavor and aroma. Pivo Pils uses Spalt, Tradition, and Saphir. Hops are typically of continental European origin and have floral, herbal, spicy, or lightly fruity notes. More modern European hops are used for dry hopping since traditional European hops often have a grassy or harsh quality when used this way. Hops with British or New World characteristics are best saved for other styles. Avoid the tendency to overhop the beer; you aren’t making an IPA.

Modern dry hopping techniques can be used but there is no need for biotransformation, so the hops can be added post-fermentation. Current thinking is that shorter contact times are better and that multiple additions are often beneficial. This allows more opportunity for a creative brewer to sample and dial in the right level of hops. The method used for dry hopping varies by brewer, so choose what works best on your equipment while minimizing the likelihood of oxygen pickup.

Normal German fermentation and lagering practices should be followed and the yeast is typically a clean, well-attenuating lager strain that produces very little sulfur. Fermentation may be slightly warmer than typical, but still in the lager range. The resulting beer shouldn’t be overly fruity, but the presence of some esters shouldn’t be treated as a fault.

Homebrew Example

This recipe is structured very much like a German Pils recipe, but with the late hops taking a more forward role. You can be a little more picky about specific varieties of hops and malts to be slightly more authentic, if you’d like.

The base malt should be mostly continental Pilsner malt. If you want to claim an Italian link, you can use the Weyermann Eraclea Pilsner Malt, which comes from Italy. It is a winter barley grown just miles from the Adriatic Sea, which makes this malt distinct from German malts made from spring varieties grown in very different climatic regions. However, the normal Pilsner malt offering from a German maltster would do just fine here. I bump up the color and mouthfeel slightly with some Munich malt, but a pale crystal (20 °L or less) or dextrin malt could also be used for the same purpose. Just try to avoid choosing malts with a toasty, biscuity, or caramelly flavor, but a touch of honey or light toffee is OK.

Germans normally step mash their Pilsners, so I use that technique as well. If your system can only handle a single infusion, shoot for something in the 149–151 °F (65–66 °C) range. Your goal is a well-attenuated beer that still has a medium-light body and mouthfeel. I don’t like adding sulfates to the water as I’m looking for a soft finish, not something sharp. This is a departure from some Northern German Pilsners. I do, however, adjust the pH of my brewing water so that I get a pH in the mash of around 5.1. Acidulated malt or lactic or phosphoric acids are options to get the mash there.

I’m taking clues from both Tipopils and Pivo Pils for the hops in that I’m featuring Saphir as the dry hop and using Spalt as a flavor hop. The flavor hops are added as first wort hops, which also contributes to the bitterness. The old workhorse Magnum hop gives a clean bitterness and lets me hit my IBU target. You can have a more layered hop schedule, but this gives you the bitterness, flavor, and aroma you need. I’m not going super high on the IBUs, because I want this beer to have a softer finish without too much of a hop bite.

Nothing special about the yeast; the reliable W-34/70 from SafLager (or equivalent since most yeast manufacturer have this popular strain in their lineup) is my choice and you can pick it from your favorite supplier around the world. I find the dry yeast easy to handle and reliable, so that’s my first choice. I’m fermenting slightly warmer than in a German Pils, and you can allow this yeast to rise in temperature up to 59 °F (15 °C) if you like. I take my time lagering, which I think gives the beer a smooth profile.

The resulting balance of the beer should be hoppy on the nose, clean flavors on the palate, and with a soft finish. The balance is bitter, but it shouldn’t drink like an IPA. The alcohol is around 5.1%, so you can enjoy a few pints. I do like making beers with a high degree of drinkability, and this one suits the bill. Hope you enjoy it too.

Italian Pilsner by the Numbers

OG: 1.044–1.050
FG: 1.008–1.013
SRM: 2–4
IBU: 22–40
ABV: 4.4–5.2%

Tips for Success

While maintaining cool, cellar-like temperatures during the first half of active fermentation should produce the cleanest beer, this yeast strain is very forgiving and can tolerate temperatures into the 60s °F (mid-teens °C) without increasing potential for off-flavors such as fusels and esters.